José Martí Airport Havana Survival Guide 2025 – No BS Tips for Navigating Cuba’s Chaotic Gateway

Let’s cut the fluff. José Martí International Airport (HAV) isn’t just an airport. It’s a crash course in Cuban reality. Forget sterile terminals and robotic efficiency. Here, you’ll find peeling paint, cigar smoke, and hustlers who’ve perfected the art of the “amigo tax.” This guide won’t coddle you. It’ll arm you with the gritty, no-bullshit intel you need to survive Havana’s gateway.

Terminal 1: Domestic Flights – Where Time Stood Still

Terminal 1 is Cuba’s aviation time capsule. The “renovations” promised in 2008? They never came. This is pre-revolution aesthetics with post-Soviet functionality.

Seating: The Hunger Games of Airport Benches

• 32 vinyl thrones all original, all fought over.
• Pro move: The bench by the dead water fountain. Less butt-shaped.
• No seat? The floor is an option. Bring a scarf to sit on.

Food: The Mystery Meal Experience

The lone cafeteria’s menu:

1. “Ham” Sandwich – If by “ham” they mean pressed sawdust.
2. Jet Fuel Coffee – One sip and your eyelids won’t blink for hours.
3. Lukewarm Bucanero – Because nothing says “Cuba” like warm beer at 9 AM.

Survival tip: Pack Tostones or Cuban crackers. The cafeteria’s “stock” is a myth.

Blackouts: Welcome to the Dark Ages

• Lights cut out at least once daily.
• Staff will keep working by candlelight like it’s 1895.
• Your job: Have a penlight to fill out forms. No light? Borrow a flame from a local’s cigar.

Terminal 2: The Hustler’s Paradise

Terminal 2 is where Cuba’s “creative entrepreneurship” shines. Music, rum, and scams all in one chaotic package.

The Luggage Cart Mafia

• Yellow vest guys aren’t staff. They’re freelance extortionists.
• Their playbook:
  • “Accidentally” touch your cart.
  • Push it three steps.
  • Demand $10 for their “service.”
• Shut it down:
  • “No, coño!” works better than polite Spanish.
  • Carry your own damn bags if possible.

Free Rum? Yeah, right.

• Havana Club reps aren’t being generous.
• The trap:
  • You sip.
  • They upsell you a $50 bottle.
  • You miss your flight arguing.
• Escape route: Take the shot, say “Está fuerte!” (It’s strong!), and bolt.

Terminal 3: International – The “Fancy” One (Sort Of)

Terminal 3 is Cuba’s attempt at modernity. Key word: attempt.

Immigration: The Left Line Secret

• Right lines = Tourist herds. Left line = Business travelers.
• Why? Left-side officers are veterans who DGAF about your souvenirs.

Duty-Free: The Only Things Worth Buying

• ✅ Habanos cigars – Legit, but check seals (fakes sneak in).
• ✅ Havana Club 7 Años – $15 here vs. $40 en Miami.
• ✅ Guayaberas – The one well-made Cuban souvenir.

Skip:

• ❌ “Cuban” perfume – Smells like regret and chemicals.
• ❌ Electronics – A Sony Walkman isn’t retro here it’s just old.

Hidden Espresso Spot

• Behind the Gate 5A newsstand, a real coffee stand exists.
• 1 CUC for a real café cubano (not the dishwater from vendors).
• Bonus: The only working outlets in the terminal.

Baggage Claim: The Waiting Game

• 45 minutes minimum for bags. 90+ if it’s Cubana Airlines.
• Porters in uniforms are legit. Tip $2 they’ll fight for your bag.
• “Helpers” in civvies? They’ll steal your tip for doing nothing.

Money Exchange: Don’t Get Played

• Airport CADECA rates are robbery.
• Only change $20 for the taxi.
• Best rates: Cadeca on Obispo Street (Havana Vieja).

Bill Warning:

• Crisp $100s? Sometimes rejected for “counterfeit” fears.
• Bring $20s and $10s smaller bills = fewer problems.

WiFi: Mission Impossible

• Airport WiFi? Doesn’t exist.
• Nauta cards: Buy from:
  • ETECSA stores (cheapest).
  • Terminal 3 hotel desk (official price).
  • The sketchy guy near taxis (upcharge, but fast).

Taxis: The Price Gauntlet

• Official taxis: $25 to Vedado.
• Real deals:
  • Collectivos ($10/person).
  • Local cabs at Rotonda de Marianao ($15).
• Never accept the first quote. Always haggle.

Cancelled Flights: Welcome to Cubana Airlines

• No announcements. You’ll find out when the plane doesn’t show up.
• What to do:
  1. Find Cubana’s office (Terminal 2, hidden behind a fake plant).
  2. Demand rebooking they won’t offer voluntarily.
  3. Bribe with cash if needed (yes, really).

VIP Lounge: The $25 Disappointment

• Promises: “Luxury.”
• Reality:
  • AC? Maybe.
  • Food? Stale sandwiches.
  • Outlets? Bring a universal adapter (they’re Soviet-era).

Only go if you’re desperate for a chair and beer.

Stranded Overnight? Brutal.

• The airport closes at 1 AM–4 AM. You will be kicked out.
• Only option: Hotel Tryp Habana Libre ($80/night).
• Request “runway view” quieter than the street side.

Non-Negotiable Survival Kit

1. Toilet paper – Restock when you see it.
2. Hand sanitizer – Soap is a rumor here.
3. Snacks – Cuban crackers, nuts, chocolate.
4. Penlight – For blackouts and forms.

Spanish Phrases That Actually Help

• Dónde está el baño – Bathroom locations are never obvious.
• No, gracias. – The most important phrase in Cuba.
• Cuánto cuesta? – Always ask first or pay the “gringo tax.

The Bottom Line

José Martí Airport isn’t easy. But it’s 100% Cuba chaotic, flawed, and weirdly charming. Come with zero expectations, a sense of humor, and this guide. You’ll leave with great stories (and hopefully your luggage).

Remember: In Cuba, “no problem” means “we’ll see.” “Soon” means “maybe tomorrow.” And your flight? Well… buena suerte, amigo.