The propeller plane shuddered as we descended toward Majuro Atoll. Through the scratched window, I saw what looked like emerald necklaces scattered across the Pacific thin strips of land encircling lagoons so blue they hurt my eyes.
I had dreamed of the Marshall Islands for years, imagining luxury overwater bungalows and spa treatments. Reality hit when I stepped onto the cracked tarmac of Amata Kabua International Airport. No lei greetings. No tour guides holding signs. Just humid air thick with salt and the distant laughter of children playing in a puddle.
This guide contains:
✔ Brutally honest impressions from 6 weeks living there
✔ Secrets only locals know (like where to find the best coconut crab)
✔ Costs down to the dollar (no vague “budget tips”)
✔ Cultural mistakes I made so you avoid them
Destination 1: Bikini Atoll – Where Time Stopped in 1946
The Journey There: Not for the Faint-Hearted
Getting to Bikini makes climbing Machu Picchu look easy:
Step 1: Fly to Majuro (2 days from most countries)
Step 2: Wait 3-7 days for the supply ship (no fixed schedule)
Step 3: 14-hour boat ride on waves that toss you like salad
I vomited four times. My German dive buddy, Klaus, joked: “This is why Bikini has no tourists; they all quit halfway.”
A Day in the Life on Bikini
6 AM: Wake to roosters crowing under your bunkhouse
8 AM: Breakfast instant coffee and Spam fried over a fire
10 AM: Dive briefing (“Don’t touch the uranium glass formations”)
2 PM: Nap in a hammock strung between palm trees
6 PM: Watch the caretaker’s kids play hide-and-seek in abandoned military trucks
Diving the Nuclear Ghost Fleet
The USS Saratoga wreck is the star attraction, but these surprised me more:
USS Arkansas: A battleship lying upside down swims beneath its massive hull
HIJMS Nagato: Japan’s flagship where “Tora! Tora! Tora!” was planned
The “Pumpkin” Craters: Underwater holes from atomic tests, now filled with coral
Danger No One Mentions:
The currents can sweep you into the open ocean. Our guide tied a 100-foot rope to each diver’s belt.
Cost Breakdown (2024 Prices)
Liveaboard trip: $4,200 (includes 12 dives)
Permits: $550 (paid in cash to Bikini Council)
Gear rental: $300 (bring your own if possible)
Gifts for locals: $50 (sewing kits and coffee are gold)
Local Secret:
Befriend the cooks. I traded my extra sunscreen for extra portions of fresh tuna.
Destination 2: Majuro Atoll – Concrete, Chaos & Hidden Beauty
First Impressions: Culture Shock
Majuro’s “downtown” is a single paved road lined with:
Leaky warehouses selling rice by the sack
Betel nut stands where elders spit red juice onto the asphalt
Chickens pecking at discarded ramen packets
Yet within days, I discovered its magic.
A Week in My Marshallese Routine
Monday:
Morning: Bought breakfast at a roadside shack donut wrapped in newspaper ($1)
Afternoon: Got lost looking for Laura Beach (directions are like “turn left at the pink house”)
Evening: Watched teenagers play basketball with a coconut
Wednesday:
Joined a fishing trip with Leta’s family (caught nothing but laughed the whole time)
Learned to crack open a coconut with a machete (took me 17 tries)
Friday:
Attended a church fundraiser where we ate dog (yes, dog)
Danced traditional “jebro” until my feet blistered
5 Things That Will Surprise You
No addresses – My homestay was “the blue house near the big tree”
Ice cream trucks play Christmas carols – Even in July
Everyone knows your business – I sneezed once, and by afternoon, people asked if I had a cold
The ocean is the refrigerator – Fish stay fresh in underwater cages
“Island time” is real – “We’ll leave at 8 AM” means maybe 11 AM
Where to Eat (Real Local Spots)
Jitney Takeout: Gas station with the best fried chicken ($4/meal)
Marshall’s Resort: Not a resort, just plastic chairs by the water. Try the parrotfish soup.
Your Host’s Kitchen: Home-cooked meals cost $3 if you help peel breadfruit
Cultural Rules You Must Follow
Do:
Share food – Even if it’s your last cracker
Sing in church – Tone-deaf? Doesn’t matter
Use your lips to point – Finger-pointing is rude
Don’t:
Whistle at night – Attracts ghosts (I learned this after being scolded)
Step over legs – Walk around seated people
Take photos without asking – Especially of elders
Final Verdict: Who Should Visit (Marshall Islands Tourism)?
Go If You:
✓ Want bragging rights over Instagram travelers
✓ Can laugh when plans collapse (daily)
✓ Don’t mind bucket showers
Skip If You:
✗ Need Starbucks and AC
✗ Get anxious without Wi-Fi
✗ Expect “service with a smile”
